Here’s a blown seal. Rip it out, and leave the roof in tilt position.

The book says to get a special tool - but you can just use a coat hanger and create a hook that looks like this, it will let you to grab the spring in the next step

gently push on the inner cover of he sunroof - you should find a spring attached to the edge of the cover plate, use the hook to release it, and drop the cover plate down.

From inside of the car, reach up and slide your inner fabric panel backwards into the roof, don’t worry - it take a little force - it’s held in the front by 4 clips.

This picture shows the real seal, there is one circlip holding that shaft in the hole, gently using a pair of long nose pliers, slip the circlip out. Once you have done both sides, pop the shaft out from the bracket.
(Adjustment note: the large Phillips screws on the top left is you rear adjustment sunroof screw.)

The sunroof is attached to the rack with 4 bolts in the front. Remove them.
(Adjustment Note: The middle screw you see in this picture is your front adjustment sunroof screw)

Slide the pin from the center bar and remove center bar, and pop the sunroof off of the car.

The small thin bracket seen over the seal will have to be removed on each side of the sunroof before you can remove the old seal.

Pry the old seal out, then clean the gutter.

Press the new seal into place

This picture is to remind you to push the new seal completely in until it reaches the inside of the sunroof.

The seal was a tad long (1/2″ too long) and I used a pair of metal scissors to make the final cut.

TADA! and here is the job done (after I re-installed the 2 brackets in the sunroof.
(You can see Patrick in the picture…heh heh)

1. Push rain tray into the roof, 2. Remove handle from mechanism inside the car, 3. Slide the coasters into the roof, slide the tilting beam to rear of sunroof area.

Remove screws in the pattern below.

remove the 4 screws that hold the wind deflector in place, then the 2 that hold the slider in place

Remove the screws that hold the front cable guide

Remove the last 2 screws, on each side of the front rail, then remove the rear screw near rear edge of sunroof hole. now pop that little plate you see here.
Now - gently lift the cable guide rail and grab the rails and everything will come out. (2 person job) lay it all out on a clean area…

Here’s a picture of one rail cleaned…

Another Picture…

Once you are done cleaning the rails out, apply a thin coat of grease, using a brush, then wipe most of it off with your finger; this leaves a nice functional thin coat. Too much will make it harder on cold days - and attract more dust.

Both sides of the Inner rails have to be greased.

Now the side rail, only the upper rail needs it, The lower rail is just for the lining to slide in.

cable coaster - cleaned out, and in need of grease in the U shaped bracket

The tilting bracket requires greasing also - in the U shape bracket at each end.

Grease the Rain tray too.

You can put a coat of silicone on the rain tray to make the water run right off of it and prevent corrosion.

This shows the wind deflector slides before and after cleaning them out. You can apply the silicon here too.

The sunroof fabric was really dirty.

Just incredibly dirty…

Using your old sunroof plates - you can make new fabric by cutting and using contact cement.

Here we have the final product. nice and clean.

Clean out the gutter and check for debris inside the roof. Reassembly is simple:

1. Slide the rails in place
2. Slide the sunroof liner into the sunroof
3. Slide the rain tray into the rear of the assembly,
4. Slide the guide of the cables part ways unto the rail
5. Slide the tilting bar into the assembly
6. Close up the cable guide bar in place
7. Screw it all back into place.

The final product.

This technote covers fixing broken wires in the seatback to make the seat feel like new again!
If you sit down and feel the pop of a breaking support wire - this technote is for you.

Originally posted at http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3969521 by JonnyPhenomenon, reposted to Vintagewatercooleds.com with permission.

First of all, I must apologize for the lack of proper photography on this post. I thought I would have more time for pics, but my pregnant wife is nesting now and she was rushing me to help her get stuff done in the nursery…

so the other day I was settling into my seat and heared a pop. then all of a sudden my seat went from ‘not-so-comfortable’ to ‘REally UNconfortable’. I have had a feeling this was coming for a while now, but I have been putting off the repairs until it got ‘really bad’.

anyway. these seats have quite the little skeleton of wires and springs inside of them and they can break in all sorts of different places.

here is a pic with some areas colored for refence:

<picture>

Seatback Image, Click to Enlarge

the pink horizontal lines are very thin wires crossing the width of the seat connecting together the two heavy gauge spring steel ‘wires’ that I marked in green. these two wires are held tight by 3 springs on each side. (blue arrows)

so when I first got the rocco, the drivers side seat was a bit sloppy. some of the ‘pink’ wires had broken and were actually poking out of the back of the seat. I repaired it by taking it all apart and sourcing some used wires from a donor seat. the problem was that they werent all the same length and my seat was still quite uncomfortable.

up until now, I have just been dealing with the lumpy uncomfortable seat, when it broke again I knew it was time to do something about it.

in the picture the red circle is drawn around the spring that gets the most abuse. it is a much heavier gauge than the other two, and what happens with this spring is that it slowly wears a notch in the ‘green’ wire and creates a weak point. when I squeazed into the seat the other day, I finally caused that spring to actually break the ‘green’ wire at the wear point, and all support from the seat back was lost.

the solution:
I took the seat back out of the car and took it all apart. I seperated all of the hogs ring staples with a pair of needle nose plyers. I didnt have to remove the head rest, but I did have to peel back all of the vynil covering the seat to properly get at all of the innards.

I picked up some heavy gauge metal rod from the shop. the original wire is very hard to bend. the replacement part was a much heavier gauge, but still easier to bend than the stock part. you might be able to get away with using two or three lengths of coat hanger wire to get the firmness of the OEM part. just stay away from brass as it will get brittle far sooner than steel.

next I had to remove the old wire, and unfasten every one of the ‘pink’ wires attached to it, as well as the springs, a clip and so on.

the old wire is covered with a paper wrapping twisted all around it. this keeps the springs and ‘pink’ wires from moving around on it. I wrapped my new wire with rubber stretch tape.

then I started reassembling it and took extra special care to make all of the “pink” wires to have the same tention on them. I had to do some fine tuning, but once the majority of these wires were on, I attached all of the springs and could easily tell which ones of these wires was too loose. Hint: if you can wiggle the wire, its too loose.

with all my wires correctly tightend and all the rest of the parts in place, I pulled the skin back in place and clamped the 20 or so hogs rings(staples) in place to keep the skin where it belongs.

So then I reinstalled it back in the car and smiled as sat down to the most comfortable scirocco seat I have ever been in.

Seatback Frame

my pictures are really out of focus, but if you look hard you can se that there are three different places where you can attach that spring. this set of springs was not broken yet but they were working on it. so I moved the springs up to the top spring as a preventative measure.

Wear Point

Release cable issues.
I would say that the number one issue with the rocco seat release is due to streching cables. the next would probably be breakage of the plastic routing guides followed by actual breakage of the cables.
I got this set of seats used from a friend, and they were very stubborn when told to tip forward. I could fight with it for a while and get them to release, but most of the time I had to reach down and lift the lock to get them to go. the problem was that the long release cable had stretched over time, and the short one was hitting the stopper before the other one had a chance to open up enough to unlock.

here are some pics to explain wheat Im talking about.
this one shows the short side. I have the release lever lifted all the way up to show that this side is fully opened.

Cable

on the other side, the lock was not fully open, in fact it had another quarter of an inch to go before it would release. I dont have pics of that. anyway, I drilled a new hole to fit the cable through that would take up that extra quarter of an inch needed to open it all the way.

notice the old hole just to the left of the one the cables in.

Cable with new hole

now when I lift the release lever both sides hit the stopper and are fully opened.

Solved

A word about seat disassembly:
the head rest is mounted to the seat by these two plastic tubesand held in with pins. taking the pins out is easy enough, but getting the skin off the seat to do major repairs requires removing these plastic tubes, and that can be a real pain. Ive taken some pics of my secret to getting those plastic tubes out of the seats.

My pics are of a seat thats already apart, so you can better see the part you will be fighting with. with the skin and the cushion stuff on the frame you will not be able to see what you are doing in there, so you will need toknow what you are feeling for.

First. the offending beast.

Annoying Clips

and out of order, removing the pin that holds the headrest in place.

Remove Pin

my secret weapon is a 10mm socket on an extention for leverage.

Socket

you need to get all the tips of the plastic thing inside the 10mm socket.

Surround tips in Socket

now push like hell and wiggle that back and forth. if you stick a finger in there to assist you might get stung. so be careful the edges can be sharp.

Push and Fight!

eventually you will be rewarded with a satisfying POP!

Pop!

now repeat this for the other side and get yourself a beer.

Clips!

Doe your seat rock about? You’ll need the plastic guides that keep the seat base from jiggling round in the base…

in which case, you need two, one for each side of the seat. the outers are 171881213b

the inners are 191881213909

you will notice there isn’t a heck of a lot of difference between these two parts. the only noticeable difference is the little tab sticking out of the gray one. the white ones are about 5 times as much as the gray ones. being cheap, I took a couple gray ones and shaved the tab off and used them as whites

Inner Clips

Outer Clips

Here’s some pictures of Jonny’s re-upholstered seats!

Here are the new settings in Megatune to make this change. This is Megasquirt II Extra, so the appearance of these windows may vary in your setup.

This is a difference in Audi vs Volkswagen distributors’ Hall sender shutters. The Megamanual was no help in figuring this out.

Getting this wrong could cause your engine to run only with the distributor advanced or retarded about 45° and 55°, and whacky advance problems, sparking on the wrong terminal, and head injuries due to you hitting your head against the wall!

This picture shows the whole harness with everything labeled.

This picture shows the Oxygen Sensor connectors, the green is the sensor, the two pin is for the oxygen sensor heater

This picture shows the wiring of the hall sender. This is useful because these wires break often. Megasquirt also can connect to this using the color codes.

We have a steering wheel here. Use a screwdriver to remove the cover, pry from both sides, not the top and bottom. Remove your key, and lock your steering wheel. Then use a 24mm socket and an extension to remove the steering wheel nut. Remove the wheel, being careful to note where it was turned. Use a matchmark if you need to.

Here’s the turn signal switches. That thing at the bottom is the horn ring contactor. Remove the three screws with a flat bladed screwdriver. At this point, remove the plastic trim around the end of the column if you have it. It is 3 phillips screws from underneath. Mine is gone.

Now, remove the plugs from the switches. There’s three plugs, one for highbeams on the top left, one for wipers, and one for turn signals. Then remove the switches and set them aside.

Remove the black collar from the center of the column with a pair of channel-locks or pliers. Remove the 6mm allen screw from the left side to release the ignition housing. Pull the housing away.

I didn’t take a picture of it, but you need to remove the ignition switch from the housing by loosening the small phillips screw in there looking from the back. If yours is old, replace it with a new one now, these go bad a lot. (photos here are from the ignition switch technote )

Here’s two housings. I need my old lock to go to the new housing because those small screw places are stripped out. Here’s my work area: I needed a drill, drillbits (1/8″ size), the Bentley, a ruler, and a pencil. The Bentley says annoying things like “Installation is the reverse of removal”. Yeah. Sure it is. Thanks, Bentley.

I just made a t-shirt out of that phrase: Click the picture to visit the t-shirt site.

Now, measure twice, drill once! You need to be 10mm from the line near the part number, and 12mm from the end of the aluminum housing. Mark it with a pencil. Get out your 1/8″ drillbit.

Drill! Be careful to not walk the drill around the housing.

See that in there? It’s a sort of leaf spring that holds the lock in the housing. You need to push it down and pull the lock out. I used another drillbit to do it. Use the key to pull the lock out while you are pusing the spring in. Once you have it released, the lock will pull out about 1/8″. Remove the key to release the steering locker mechanism. Careful not to let it slide back in. Once you remove the key, the cylinder should come out easily. I put a picture there of what the spring looks like.

To re-assemble, “Simply” re-insert the lock. (actually, it’s not bad) You’ll feel it click when it’s back in. Test out your key now.

You’re done!

Installation is the reverse of removal! :D  Heh heh heh.

Be careful not to overtighten the three screws. Make sure you plug in all three plugs, and the ignition switch plug.

My car died while I was working on it. Onto the charger!

Tools needed:

• Philips head screwdriver
• Thin flat head screwdriver
• Pick or pair of tweezers
• Lightweight lubricant
• Common sense

This technote is brought to you by scirocco*joe, who wrote and did all this, and by sciroccojim, who thankfully took the time at the recent Fall Foliage Cruise to explain some of the basics for this process. It is only with his expertise that I am able to bring you this technote.

So, perhaps you’re the second, third, seventh, or eleventy-billionth owner of that sweet, sweet Scirocco that sits in front of you. It may not even drive yet. That’s ok. Mayhaps one of the prior owners swapped the keys in one or more of the door handles. Perhaps you paid a locksmith to replace your ignition switch. Or, perhaps some local hooligans used a modified key (screwdriver) to gain access to your car, somewhat like this:

Regardless of how you got here, you have keys that don’t match, and you’d like to have a one-key system. Well, today is your lucky day!

First of all, if you’re just swapping the lock cylinder from one door handle to another, this is going to be an easy job. If you’re re-keying a cylinder, you’ll need to do some more work.

So, we’ll start where we always start - at the beginning! 

You’ll need to get that pesky door handle off. First, open your door so that you have all of the hardware exposed. You probably have a silver metal or black plastic trim piece on the outside of the door. You’ll need to take a thin flat head and gently pry at the rear of the trim piece while pushing slightly towards the front of the car. Here’s the spot:

There is a little tab at the front of the trim and a spring tab at the back. Once you free the rear tab, you’ll be able to slip the front tab out.

Now, take a look at the inside edge of the door behind the handle. There will be a philips head screw there. It looks like this:

You can unscrew that, and place it off to the side.

You might have noticed that there is another philips screw underneath the trim panel on the outside of the door handle towards the front of the car.

You can remove this screw now as well. There might be a washer behind that screw, so be careful removing.

Now, believe it or not, that’s pretty much all that is holding this door handle onto the car. However, there’s a little tab at the front of the handle you need to clear before you can remove the handle.

Slide the handle towards the front of the car, and slowly pull it away from the car.

Watch the rear, as the “push down” and “lock” levers can chip the paint if you aren’t careful. Pull slowly and angle the handle down towards the ground to clear the mechanism.

There are two gaskets that fit between the handle and the door, one at the front and one at the rear. The rear is the bigger one. Take these off the handle and save them. They will probably fit better than any replacement gaskets.

You’ll notice that there are two levers inside of the door where the door handle just was. The one closer to you opens the door. The one further in locks and unlocks the door. Go ahead and play with them for awhile. Bask in the mechanical simplicity of the 80s!

Ok, back to work, you slacker! 

So, you’ve got this door handle in your hand. Go ahead and pull the lever. Watch how it actuates the lever and pushes it downward. If you have a key that works, take a look at how that moves the locking mechanism in the back of the handle.

It is always a good idea to get a nice feel for a working mechanism before you go ahead and take it apart. Otherwise, you might not have as much luck getting it to work again.

Now, behind the lock cylinder, you’re going to see the lever with two paddles. This is the lever that locks and unlocks your door.

In its resting state, one paddle points towards the rear of the car, level with the ground. The other paddle points about a 45* angle down and towards the rear. You are now going to remove that paddle.

Place the handle with the mechanism face up and use a philips head to remove the screw holding the paddles onto the rear of the lock cylinder.

Do pay attention to the fact that there is a loaded spring behind the paddles. It might jump out at you when you remove the screw, so don’t let it get away from you. You’re going to need it.

Here you can see the spring behind the paddles. This is not where the spring should be positioned when reinstalling. Take the spring off and set it somewhere safe.

Now, see that little box cut that surrounds the hole where the philips screw came out of? That is the end of the lock cylinder that we will now remove. Put the handle on its side and push that box towards you to slide the cylinder out of the handle.

Here she comes!

Now, you can carefully admire the beauty and complexity of the lock cylinder mechanism. It’s really not that hard to figure out how it works.

Neat, huh?

Now, if you look closely, you’ll notice a couple of things. First of all, there is a square notched at the top of the rear of the cylinder. This lets you know that the cylinder is face up. It will only fit into the handle that way. If you put it in upside down, it will not fit in flush with the outside face of the handle.

Also, you may (or may not) see a round black seal towards the outside of the cylinder. This seals the internals from getting filthy with outside dirt and crap. This is a new cylinder, so it is still there, but chances are your older one is either broken, severely worn, or totally gone.

Now, it’s time to understand how the cylinder and the tumblers work. Lets take a look at the inside of the door handle where the cylinder came from.

If you look closely at the picture above, you can see two channels on both side of the hole where the cylinder fits. Now look again at the cylinder you removed from the handle

See how it has five little brass tabs on the left and two little brass tabs on the right sides of the cylinder? Those fit into the channels on both sides of the handle. There are small springs the force the tabs away from the center of the cylinder. So, without any help, they are forced outwards against the walls of the channel. The brass tabs are the tumblers that need to line up in order for the cylinder to rotate and your door to open.

Now that you know what it looks like, imagine that this cylinder is back inside of the handle. With all of those brass tabs or tumblers (I will probably refer to them as tabs or tumblers interchangeably) in the way, they cylinder cannot rotate to actuate the paddles in the back of the handle to unlock the door. The tabs are stuck in the channel. So, we need to have a key fit in the cylinder that is just right in order to pull the tabs inward enough to line the tabs up smooth against the sides of the cylinder so that the cylinder will turn and the door will unlock.

Watch what happens when you have the wrong key in there.

Lets take a look at the tabs from top to bottom. You can see that tabs 1, 2 and 3 actually fit well. They are flush with the sides of the cylinder. So, the key is very similar to the correct key. However, you can see that tab 4 does not fit well. The key did not pull the tab in close enough to be flush.

Tab 5 is the first tab that normally sits on the right side. You can see that the key pulled it too far inwards, so that now it is sticking out the left side. Tab 6 on the other hand is the same as tab 4. Tab 7 normally sits on the right side, and has not been pulled inward enough, as it is still poking out a bit. So, we have a close match on three out of seven tabs. Not bad.

Here’s what it looks like with the right key in there.

See how all of the tabs are lined up so that the outside of the cylinder is smooth? This will allow the cylinder to turn freely. 

Now, let’s look at those tumblers out of the cylinder.

You can use your forefinger and the nail of your thumb to pull each tab slowly out. You can also use a pick or a pair of tweezers. Since I’m planning on swapping all of the tumblers out of one cylinder and put them in a new cylinder, I will place them down in order so that I can replace them in the same order without playing a game of trial and error.

So, let’s pull tab 1 out carefully.

Ok, not too bad. Onto tab 2.

You can pretty much continue down the line like this.

Please be aware of the tiny springs that rest behind each tab in the lock cylinder. They are the reason that the tabs “spring out” when the key is removed. They don’t typically fall out when a new lock is disassembled, due to the grease in there, but they will probably fall out on older locks.

Take care to make sure there’s a spring in each section of the cylinder when you insert the tabs. There’s a round hole on one side of the cylinder where the springs go in (not the same side for each one).

You’ll also notice that each tab has a “fin” that sticks out. The five tabs on the left have fins that point up and the two tabs on the right have fins that point down. Just so’s you know.

So, now that you’ve removed the five tabs on the left, it’s time to do the same with the right.

Now, when you’re done, this is what you should have.

You can see the tabs with the fins up on the left, and the tabs with the fins down on the right.

Now, if you’re just swapping tumblers, you can replace all of the tabs into the new cylinder. If you are re-keying an existing tumbler, you’re going to need some extra tabs.

This is what I have, courtesy of sciroccojim:

No, that’s not a baggie full of an illicit substance! Get your head out of the gutter! It’s a baggie of brass tumblers!

Now, I’ve heard you can get spares from the dealership, but perhaps local locksmiths or junkyards can find them, too. It’s going to be a mixing and matching game to get the right ones you’ll need. Unfortunately, it’s a trial and error process. The slot in the middle of the tab is where the key fits, and how far it is pulled into the cylinder depends on the position of the fin on the tab and the offset of the center opening to the left or the right of the tab.

In my case, I’m just swapping tabs, so let’s do it.

You’ll put them in one at a time, same order you took them out in. When you replace them, make sure you add a little lightweight lubricant to allow for a long and useful life! The better lubricated the tumblers are, the longer the parts will last and the easier they will turn and unlock your doors! Plus, if the lubricant is coating the metal, there will be less of a chance of moisture taking up the space and freezing your lock in the winter. At least, that would be the case for those of us in the northern climes.

Also, when you press the tumblers in, push lightly to ensure that they spring back easily. Their resting position should be the same as when you took them out, sticking slightly outward as before. Take a look:

Ok, you’re almost finished. Make sure that when your key is inserted, all of the tabs are flush against the cylinder. You might as well be sure.

In my case, the first tab had worn so much that it left a little bit sticking out and wouldn’t allow the cylinder to turn. The old handle had a little groove in it from use, but the new handle was unforgiving. Since I knew the two keys I had were the same for tabs 1, 2 and 3, I just grabbed the new number 1 tab and used that instead of the old number 1 tab. Good as new.

Now, I sat the cylinder pointing upwards like this:

and slid the handle down onto it like this:

Now we’re ready to replace the spring. The spring forces the lock cylinder back to center whenever you lock or unlock the car. You feel it every time and it keeps the cylinder opening level with the ground when the handle is mounted in the car. So, this is where we are at:

Now, you’re going to take the lock return spring and sit it on top of the square at the back of the lock cylinder. You’ll put the spring so that one bend is against the tab like this:

and then push the other bend over the top of the tab so that it is “loaded” against the other side of the tab like this:

It will take a few times to get set just right and if you get it on the first try, you were just lucky. 

Now we’re ready for the locking paddles. The underside of the paddles has a box cut that will fit perfectly into the rear of the cylinder’s box tab. All you need to do is make sure that the fin tab on the mounting side of the paddles sits right between the bent edges of the spring, just like this:

Now don’t let go, because that spring will want to force the paddles off the cylinder. Grab that philips head screw and driver and secure the paddles back to the cylinder.

This is what it should look like now:

You might as well check that key again. You don’t want to attach it to the car only to find out that it won’t turn.

Looks good to me!

Now, back to the car! You’ll slide the rear in first, and again, don’t forget to put on the little gaskets on the front and rear!

The bigger gasket has a small notch and a large notch. The large notch fits on the side closest to the door opening lever. If you install backwards, its going to look warped. Here it is the correct way:

Alright, slip the rear in first, then the front, and slide the handle towards the rear of the car to lock in place.

Install and tighten the front screw and then the rear at the back side of the door.

Now, install the trim piece, and you’re done!

Now, be proud of what you’ve accomplished today! YAY! Aren’t you glad you did this yourself? 

Now, go drive Joe’s Scirocco! MUAHHAAHHAHHAH!

Fin.

Special thanks to Nick (vwpieces on VWVortex.com) for this information!

Terminal Designations (Excerpts from DIN Standard 72 552) The terminal designations do not identify the conductors, because device with different terminal designations can be connected at the two ends of each conductor. If the number of terminal designations is not sufficient (multiple-contact connections), the terminals are consecutively numbered using numbers or letters whose representations of specific functions are not standardized.

From Bosch Automotive Handbook, 3rd Edition

This is just a quick tip on Exhaust Studs for the head. These are better than the stock ones, they are made of better metal, and they have a torx heat to make removal much easier. These are much less likely to break than the stock ones.

They are for Saturns, and some other GM motors. They have E6 external torx heads.

Just ask for Saturn exhaust studs, they are M8×1.25, and the correct legnth. The ones I have were made by Dorman.